As part of the celebration of the National Day of the Sea, held last Saturday (November 14th), at the Ílhavo Maritime Museum, the City Hall launched the book "Chora e Feijão Assado - A Gastronomia de Bordo na Pesca do Bacalhau" which recreates on board recipes of the Faina Maior codfishers and which, even today, influences the ilhavenense cuisine and gastronomic heritage, with some contemporary recreations inspired by traditional ingredients and recipes.
"Chora e Feijão Assado" is the premiere edition of the collection "A Nossa Mesa", a gastronomic trilogy of the people of land, sea and lagoon of the Municipality of Ílhavo. It has its origin in the Festival Gastronomia de Bordo , an event that appeared in 2018 supported by the Project “Territórios com História: o mar, a pesca e as comunidades - programação cultural em rede dos municípios de Ílhavo, Peniche e Murtosa”, led by the Municipality of Ílhavo and co-financed by CENTRO2020, Portugal 2020 and the European Union through FEDER.
Each of these territories has developed its onboard gastronomy, and Ílhavo has dedicated itself to the centuries-old heritage of cod fishing by North Atlantic seas, projecting for the present day the gastronomy traditionally produced on board of distant fishing boats. The other territories would be responsible for the gastronomy of the coastal fishing boats (Peniche) and lagunar (Murtosa).
The book is a tribute to the traditional codfish cuisine practiced for decades on board the codfish fishing boats, supported by the flavors and restrictions experienced in the icy seas of the North. An example of this is the famous Chora, a soup made with the head of the codfish that gave motto to some sayings among the men on the ships: “quem come chora, tem de cá voltar!”- "whoever eats chora, has to come back!"
During the long months of travel, dishes such as baked beans with fried fish, "feijoada de chispe", "caldeirada de espinhas de bacalhau", "bacalhau da pana" or the "muffin of Sundays", among others, were served. Food that is reinvigorating for hostile climates and inhospitable seas faced by brave fishermen.
This edition has an unprecedented research by Pedro Miguel Silva (researcher of CIEMar-Ílhavo, of the City Hall) that presents us with a historical retrospective of the gastronomy of cod fishing vessels, tracing the everyday food on board.
As curator of the festival itself, Chef Patrícia Borges worked the recipes from written and mainly oral sources, with the memories and personal records of three former cooks: Manuel Sousa, José Pascoal and José Ribeiro. Eighteen recipes of on-board gastronomy resulted from this collection, which can be cooked in any kitchen, always offering notes with suggestions and recreations, but always respecting the memorial essence of the gastronomic heritage of the sea community.
"Chora e Feijão Assado - A Gastronomia de Bordo na Pesca do Bacalhau"
price: EUR€ 18.00
where to buy:
Ílhavo Maritime Museum
Tourist Offices in Ílhavo and Costa Nova
Ílhavo City's Online Store (https://loja.cm-ilhavo.pt/)